I just started too...what do I do now? (help!) [Archive] - AmityMama.com

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neecowal
04-26-2004, 06:47 PM
Hey there all you gardening folks,
I have big plans for my garden. I am also due to have my baby in 10 days (3rd one). My husband can be very helpful when I ask him to help me on projects, so I'm assuming he'll pick up the slack for me for a while once the baby is born.
So, last week we rented a rototiller as well, and we churned up the sod and soil. It is medium-packed claylike soil underneath the grass. I am planning on growing a whole bunch of veggies, so my garden is 28x31 (about 850 sq. ft). So for the last couple of days, I've just been going through what we rototilled, throwing the grass clumps into the compost pile. We bought this property very recently, and so just started our compost pile. I do not have any done compost to add to the soil. I feel so frustrated, because it seems like I'm throwing out 1/2 of what we tilled up in the garden--because so much of the soil sticks to the grass and the grass roots are so thick and hold so much to them. I'm assuming I need to get them all out of the garden so that it doesn't grow back....(?) THat's my 1st question.
My 2nd question is ...since I do have to add something to the soil to make it a better environment for the veggies to grow, what would you suggest? I've already spent so much $ on seeds, supplies, tools, renting the rototiller, I'm hesitant to spend alot more on getting a truck full of compost or whatever . Any suggestions? Any suggestions at all?
THanks!
Nicole

_Gentle_Spirit_
04-27-2004, 09:55 AM
Here is some info for you.
In beds earmarked for vegetables and annual flowers, amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost and well-rotted manure are preferred by most gardeners, since they dramatically improve the soil's structure, making it hospitable to the fine, tiny roots of seedlings. Unamended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result. Manure and compost break down rapidly--manure in a few weeks, compost in several months--so be sure to replenish these amendments before you plant each crop.

Heavy clay soils are fairly rich in nutrients but very poor in aeration and drainage. Add builder’s sand or sandy loam soil to help plants grow better. An ideal garden soil will contain at least 20% organic matter to improve aeration and drainage as well as to hold nutrients until plants can use them. Sawdust, barkdust, manure or compost can all be added, but extra nitrogen will have to be added to fresh sawdust or barkdust.

Your soil will be predominantly either sandy, loamy, or clayey. If you have sandy or clay soil in your garden, you will need to add amendments to improve the soil texture. This is necessary to allow for the retention of adequate moisture and nutrients in sandy soil and to provide proper drainage in clay soil. The very best organic soil amendment is compost from your own compost bin, if available. Others include rock phosphate, greensand (which contains potash), well rotted manure, and well rotted hardwood sawdust. In addition to improving soil texture, these amendments also provide nutrients (fertilizers) for your plants. There are many kinds of organic fertilizers, from kelp and fish meal to earth worm castings and bat guano. Some organic fertilizers have high nitrogen levels and low amounts of phosphorus. Others are more balanced. Base your choice of fertilizers on the needs of the plants in your garden.

If you use a tiller, go over the area afterwards and carefully remove all roots or stems. The more you can catch now, the less weed problem you will have later. Use a rake to help find any other roots or stones, then throw at least three inches of organic matter over the entire surface. Nothing improves a garden's soil faster and better then homegrown compost. I also add some peat moss, organic fertilizer, and even some shredded leaves. It's much easier to add them now--so don't stint.

I hope I was able to answer your questions. Best of luck with your new garden. It is a lot of work, but well worth the trouble.

:butterfly

neecowal
04-27-2004, 12:49 PM
Thanks Gail,
That is GREAT information!
I'll get to work!
Nicole

_Gentle_Spirit_
04-27-2004, 04:29 PM
Where in upstate NY are you?
:)

BlueRoseMama
04-27-2004, 05:16 PM
Just from my own experience, when I did not amend the soil I was wasting money getting seeds. lol... they all died the first time it got hot because the clay soil I had put them in crushed them. :wah: So the first year we were in this house I put in 3 cubic yards of 2/3 mushroom compost and 1/3 top soil. I have done very little to it since and my garden has been a VERY happy growing place for the last two years (this year too, I have seedlings EVERYWHERE! :D ). It cost about $35 for all three yards and I hauled it myself with a large male neigborhood friend. It was great though... we put it on the beds, turned the soil a little, and then put more on and we were done. There were NO weeds that first year... I was SO shocked! I am planning on getting a few more yards next year because over the last few years my garden space has been moved and turned and then moved again, and now the garden is three times the size of what it was, even though it is in the same spot... lol! I love it though. :)

Love Val

neecowal
04-27-2004, 05:40 PM
Val,
Where did you get the topsoil and the mushroom compost for free? Around where I live, you have to pay! Any suggestions?
Someone just told me where I can pick up a truckload of ground up wood chips from the local recycling center for a nominal fee, so I'm thinking of doing that, plus I have a friend with a farm that we can go pick up a load of manure.
-Nicole

BlueRoseMama
04-27-2004, 09:08 PM
Originally posted by BlueRoseMama
It cost about $35 for all three yards and I hauled it myself with a large male neigborhood friend. It was great though... we put it on the beds, turned the soil a little, and then put more on and we were done.

Not for free, but pretty cheap considering it was two truck beds full. ;) I would pick up the manure and mix it with your soil... I bet that would be enough. Perhaps some vegetable food, a 9-12-12 is best for tomatos IMO, and I just add a little to the soil when I plant seedlings or seeds of most veggies. But a box of that costs about $12. Even if you don't have that the manure sould do fine to renew your soil well. That is mostly what mushroom compost is... it is lightly composted horse manure that has been used for growing mushrooms. That is all. It is steril because it composts so hot (most manure does so you need to put a little on every three years or so due to it going away, but the added value of the organic material it adds stays for a really long time.) They just mix it with the top soil and then sell it. So I suggest getting a small box of plant food for seedlings, putting the manure in your garden and tilling it again, and I bet you you will have a wonderful growing garden! :D

I would use the chips for path ways... they are good at keeping weeds down and then add some small nutrients to the soil. If you need to put that black garden fabric down, but I have not found the need because I am out there once a day pulling little things out of the paths. But with the baby coming you may have other things that need to take priority. :butterfly Congratulations by the way! Please let us over here in the garden forum know when it happens! :heart:

Love Val

neecowal
04-29-2004, 07:49 PM
Hey,
I'm so excited! I just got a dump truck full of aged horse manure for my garden delivered for $40!!! And I worked it out that I'll get twice as much in the fall to turn in and let sit over the winter. So, I'm going to pay my son and his friend to de-grass the tilled site tomorrow, then we'll till in the manure, and then it'll be ready to plant! Yeah!

BlueRoseMama
04-29-2004, 08:22 PM
THAT IS AWSOME! Great job! I want to see pictures!

Love Val

thea
04-30-2004, 05:45 PM
Your garden so far sounds just like mine our first growing season in our house. One bit of advice: Mulch, mulch, mulch! Don't leave any soil bare, because if you do, weeds will grow. Every inch of soil should either be covered with plants or with mulch. I didn't mulch nearly enough in the beginning, and now, 4 years later, I am finally getting it under control.

neecowal
04-30-2004, 05:49 PM
How would you suggest mulching? Like, putting on the mulch right away, and then moving it aside when I am planting each bed, or waiting til I plant the bed, and then mulching, or waiting til I plant the bed, waiting for the plants to sprout, and then mulching? The thing is, I am going to be planting a couple of beds now, but for the most part I'm going to be waiting till after mid-May to plant and transplant most of the beds since my last frost date is that late here.
-Nicole